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On leaving Appleby, after 5 days of sunshine, it's time for the Pennines to show their darker side. But weather can break quickly when cycling, and one hour later along the Eden Valley it suddenly brightens for the visit to the villages of Milburn, Blencarn, Skirwith, Ousby, Melmerby and Gamblesby before the climb up to Hartside Pass. It's now well into the Northern Pennines - 'Area of Outstanding Beauty' - even in the drizzle and rain.
